Delectable kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers equally celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious group of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it joins a worldwide network of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a key factor of development that sustains urban life".
The honor "is a testament to its deep-rooted food heritage and dynamic gastronomic culture," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A City Defined by Food
The accolade for this venerable city arrives as no surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and diverse city – the capital of India's most populous state – is finally in the spotlight for what has consistently characterized its soul: an unparalleled passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from morning until going to bed in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that emerges from your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is renowned for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, merging Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and stalls – lesser-known gems that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start milling around from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint situated in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still highly popular for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The technique of making it is precise and involved. The cook beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing airy feel.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their children are reluctant to master the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow tells a story – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and secret family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will motivate more people worldwide to learn these narratives and visit the city to delight in the gastronomic treasures of Lucknow.
